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Mountaineer Wasfia Nazreen will leave Dhaka on Thursday to climb the ‘killer mountain’ Mount McKinley, also known as Denali in North America, the sixth of her ‘Bangladesh on Seven Summits’ expedition which kicked off nearly two years back.
“The success rate (of Denali) is 18 percent…pray for me,” she said as she announced her next expeditions with the experience of the latest conquest of Mount Elbrus, the highest peak of Europe, on Monday at the Russian Cultural Centre in Dhaka.
With a summit elevation of 20,320 feet or 6,194 m above sea level, Mount McKinley measured by topographic prominence is the third most prominent peak after Mount Everest and Aconcagua that she earlier climbed.
It is located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the US state of Alaska.
“It would be a long expedition. It might take more than a month,” she said and that “it’s one of the worst mountains in the seven summits.”
In her fifth climb, the second Bangladeshi women to conquer the Mount Everest, Wasfia scaled the Mount Elbrus on Mar 28 in second attempt fighting dreadful wind and icy conditions.
When she reached the top, guided by a Russian lady Anna Petrova, the wind blew at 50km/h with a temperature of -35 degree Celsius, zero visibility and 10cm snow.
“I just took the risk. I did not want to come back without success in March (independence month of Bangladesh,” she recalled.
She said she had to delay her North America venture as she had to undergo treatment after the dreadful Elbrus climb.
“Usually it (Elbrus) is recommended to climb in the summer, but I took a risk in winter (Russia) from the southern side (of the mountain),” determined Wasfia said and added that in the next summer she would go back again to climb from the northern side.
With a summit elevation of 20,320 feet or 6,194 m above sea level, Mount McKinley measured by topographic prominence is the third most prominent peak after Mount Everest and Aconcagua that she earlier climbed.
It is located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the US state of Alaska.
“It would be a long expedition. It might take more than a month,” she said and that “it’s one of the worst mountains in the seven summits.”
In her fifth climb, the second Bangladeshi women to conquer the Mount Everest, Wasfia scaled the Mount Elbrus on Mar 28 in second attempt fighting dreadful wind and icy conditions.
When she reached the top, guided by a Russian lady Anna Petrova, the wind blew at 50km/h with a temperature of -35 degree Celsius, zero visibility and 10cm snow.
“I just took the risk. I did not want to come back without success in March (independence month of Bangladesh,” she recalled.
She said she had to delay her North America venture as she had to undergo treatment after the dreadful Elbrus climb.
“Usually it (Elbrus) is recommended to climb in the summer, but I took a risk in winter (Russia) from the southern side (of the mountain),” determined Wasfia said and added that in the next summer she would go back again to climb from the northern side.

Wasfia Nazreen, the second Bangladeshi woman to conquer Mount Everest, arrives at Shahjalal International Airport on her return to homeland on Saturday. Photo: bdnews24.com/ Dhaka, June 09, 2012
She said she had dedicated her latest success ‘to the martyrs of 1971, the spirit of Shahbagh movement and justice.’
Earlier she conquered the highest peak Mount Everest in Asia, Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa, Aconcagua in Argentina, and the highest mountain of Antarctica Vinson Massif.
She said her last summit will be in June in Indonesia's Carstensz Pyramids and after that she had plans to write a book.
In her every effort, she said, she tried to project ‘a positive Bangladesh’.
"The demands given by Hifazat-e Islam, are absolutely unfounded and unrealistic! Bangladesh was created on grounds where we wanted a secular & moderate nation. It cannot be overnight turned into an Islamist state. If anyone wants to make it a place for extremists, they can go to other countries and try to impose that,” she said as she made her comments on the recent demands of Chittagong-based little-known radical organiastion Hifazat-e Islam.
Director of the Russian Centre of Science and Culture in Dhaka Alexander P. Demin extolled Wasfia for her efforts ‘to brand Bangladesh, and promote its culture.’
“She is a kind of ambassador of Bangladesh,” he said.
Chief of Protocol of Russian Embassy in Dhaka Artur R. Zakaev said their Ministry of Sports and Culture and Climbers’ Association were ready to welcome her in Aug for her second expedition with ‘all assistance.’
Director of the Russian Centre of Science and Culture in Dhaka Alexander P. Demin extolled Wasfia for her efforts ‘to brand Bangladesh, and promote its culture.’
“She is a kind of ambassador of Bangladesh,” he said.
Chief of Protocol of Russian Embassy in Dhaka Artur R. Zakaev said their Ministry of Sports and Culture and Climbers’ Association were ready to welcome her in Aug for her second expedition with ‘all assistance.’
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